Climbing *Amangeldy’s peak
• Amangeldy Peak
Amangeldy peak is the peak of the northern slope of the Tien Shan ridge Zailiysky Alatau. The peak height is 4010 meters. The peak bears the name of the leader of the national liberation rebellion and revolutionist Amangeldy Imanov. Climbing the peak you will see the peaks of the Bogdanovich and Tuyuksu glaciers, the peaks of Manshuk Mametova and the peak of Abai. In the south and west the peaks are rocky, and in the north and east they are partially covered with ice. Races are organized there in memory of Anatoly Bukreev every year.
Climbing Amangeldy peak, 1 day, distance 28 km, climb 1600 m.
Route of complexity class 1 B is available all year round. It requires initial climbing skills, the ability to work with special equipment on a rocky terrain.
At the beginning of the route, from the Tuyuksu climbing camp we get to the Mynzhilki weather station. We cross the dam and turn to the east, climb the moraine to the Alpengrad bivouac.
Then we go to the foot of the western side of the peak, overcoming large stones and rocks. We move under the rocky tower of the peak. Next we pass one narrow hollow. We get to a steep 25-meter wall - 55-60 degrees, which is overcome in the forehead (railing) or alternate piton-belay depending on the readiness of the group. After we pass the wall we turn left and go to the top along the rocky ridge.
Descent along the ascent path.