The 35th anniversary of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition to the Everest

THE POOLS OF THE THIRD POLE
“Let’s glorify those who were on Mount Everest, who conquered the third pole of the world.
Who, in addition to his personal mountaineering honor, did not lose the honor of his homeland.
And if somewhere there is a mountain above the Everest heights,
From our someone will break through there, but there will not be enough of a day, he will rise at night! ”
Yuri Vizboor
In May 2017, the Federation of Mountaineering and Sports Saklolazaniya of Kazakhstan celebrated its three jubilees: the 35th anniversary of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition to Everest, the 20th anniversary of the Kazakhstani expedition to the highest peak of the planet, ten years have passed since the ascent to the peak number one of the Kazakhstani deuce Jumaev-Pivtsov.
In the assembly hall of the Kazakh Academy of Sports and Tourism, a banner with the image of the southern wall of Everest was installed. We got the down and other equipment that was used in the Everest-82 expedition, put on the stage a tent and a mannequin dressed in this outfit.
Soviet climbers dreamed for many years to get to the Himalayas – the highest mountains of the Earth, where there are ten of the fourteen peaks exceeding the height of 8000 meters. Everest rose above all-8848 meters above sea level. And above – only the sky.
As the talented journalist Yuri Rost, the author of the eponymous book, wrote in the script of the film Everest 82, there is one path leading to the foot of Everest, and from the foot to the top there are many paths. For the first time going to the unknown Himalayas, the USSR team announced its readiness to go through the most complicated route along the southwest wall of Everest, which nobody repeated for 35 years.
The French expedition of 1950 under the leadership of Maurice Erzog opened the era of “Himalayas”, rising to the eight thousandth Annapurna. “Our Islands” – the French spoke of the Himalayas with love. Breaking away from the big earth and finding yourself in the land where there are no roads, where people who constantly walk up and down live in houses made of stone, carry any loads on their shoulders, and transport them by yaks, you seem to be immersed in another era, in Another time, and the surrounding area is filled with mountains, mountains, mountains. Dotjagivayas with a glance to the top, you drop a hat from your head …
Nepal. A small plane takes off to Kathmandu and soon lands at the airport of Lukla. The path runs under the shadow of the rhododendrons, the long, pendulous bridges swinging under the feet lead through the rivers. In Tianboche there is a roar of pipes, and under the arches of an ancient monastery the llamas offer prayers to their gods. Further, the landscape becomes more severe, losing the diversity of colors. The path clings to the rocks, comes out on stony screes, sharply soars up. Having overcome this prolonged ascent, you find yourself in the capital of Sherpas Namche Bazaar. From this village, sandwiched between the mountain slopes, still go and go up to the foot of Mount Everest. And there, above five thousand meters, there is only ice, snow and stone. And the mighty Mount Everest is next to the eight-thousand-meter Lhotse surrounded by magnificent peaks. And the south-west wall of Everest in all its glory and grandeur. And people from all corners of the planet, cherishing the hope to stand even a minute where you can touch the sky with your hand.
In the 82nd the expedition members processed the route for two months, set up high-altitude camps and filled up oxygen tanks, equipment, and products. From May 4 to 9, 1982, after a tense month-and-a-half work, 11 alpinists climbed the summit of the First Soviet Himalayan expedition Everest-82. The first peaks reached Eduard Myslovskiy and Vladimir Balyberdin. At night Sergey Bershov and Mikhail Turkevich ascended. Then followed Sergei Efimov and Valentin Ivanov. Behind them, the assault camp was occupied by Kazbek Valiev and Valery Khristyaty, but the wind did not let them get on the route. After spending 24 hours at an altitude of 8500, they also made a night climb. The last peaks reached Valery Khomutov, Vladimir Puchkov and Yuri Golodov.
The expedition headed by Doctor of Physical and Mathematical Sciences, Deputy Chairman of the USSR Mountaineering Federation Igor Tamm achieved an outstanding sports result of the international class. Let me remind you that the team consisted of five Kazakhstan players – playing coach Yervand Ilyinsky, Kazbek Valiev, Valery Khristashy, Yuri Golodov and Sergey Chepchev.
Then the legendary pioneer on Mount Everest, Edmund Hillary said: Russian climbers made a super-route! Probably in the West all Soviet people were considered Russians at the time.
In 1990, the head coach of the country in mountaineering Yervand Tikhonovich Ilinsky, who did not manage to reach the summit in 82nd, ascended Everest as part of the US-China-Soviet expedition. It was called the “Expedition of the World”, it was led by Jim Whitaker. Kazakhstanis Grigory Lunyakov and Andrey Tselishchev climbed to the top without using additional oxygen equipment.
Since 1991, Kazakhstani mountaineers have been making independent expeditions in the Himalayas. In 1997, the Kazakhstan expedition to Everest was organized under the leadership of Major-General Pavel Novikov and the outstanding coach Yervand Ilyinsky. Then the top reached the first woman from our country, Lyudmila Savina. The title of “Everest climber” was awarded to Vladimir Suway, who climbed to the top without oxygen, Sergei Ovcharenko, Andrei Molotov, Dmitry Muraviev, Dmitry Sobolev, Dmitry Grekov, Vladimir Frolov, Sergei Lavrov, Konstantin Farafonov.
If we talk about “our Everest”, four times without oxygen to an altitude of 8,848 m climbed the legendary mountaineer Anatoly Bukreev. In 2000, the winner was the winner of several “Golden Ice Ax” Denis Urubko, who started the way through the Himalayas from the ascent to Everest and took his place in the club “14”. In its composition – only elected, who managed to reach the tops of all eight thousandths of the earth. In 2002, the famous Kazakhstani deuce Maksut Zhumaev-Vasily Pivtsov rose to Mount Everest. This bunch also became one of the conquerors of all the giants of the mountains.
At the end of the solemn meeting, dedicated to the three alpine jubilees, they decided to invite all the high-altitude people who came to the evening on the stage. The Himalayas began to rise from their chairs, then a voice was heard from the hall:
– And Lenin’s peak is considered?
– It is considered! – and half of the hall moved to the stage, and if there are climbers in the country to the seven-thousandths, then the high-altitude mountain-climbing is alive and will continue to live!
Members of the Everest 82 expedition were invited to the jubilee from Russia: Eduard Myslovskiy, Vladimir Shopin, as well as the operator of Lennauchfilm Dmitry Kovalenko, who told how hard it was to work with movie cameras in permafrost. A question came from the audience:
– For what purpose do people climb mountains?
And Eduard Myslovskiy remembered how Mikhail Turkevich joked in his time. When, at a meeting with the Himalayas, he was asked how much mountaineers pay, he answered without hesitation:
– Ruble is a meter.
As Vladimir Shopin noted, Almaty is almost the last island of mountaineering in the former vast country. And when a whole crowd lined up at the banner on which Everest was portrayed, the Russians could not but envy us living at the foot of the mountains, when Khan-Tengri and the Victory Peak in the Central Tien Shan are reachable, and to the Pamir 7,000-thousand people, a little more than two thousand Kilometers.
Years go by. Endlessly the equipment is improved. Values ​​change, and today the use of oxygen is considered unsporting, and the usual siege style is not modern. The strongest climbers work in a light alpine style without the use of additional oxygen equipment. And Everest is worth, and interest in this mountain is still the same. A person simply needs to prove to himself and others that he is the chosen one and he can tolerate deprivation and breathe like a fish pulled out of the water, but trample the path to the top to stand there for one minute, but see this world from a height on which Airplanes fly.
On the stage were three generations of mountaineers, and all of them are climbers with a capital letter. Alas, many are no longer with us – some of the participants of the sensational Everest 82 expedition died, there is not one of those who descended on the inaccessible mountain in 97th. Twenty years in the world there are no living climbers on Everest Anatoly Bukreev and Dmitry Sobolev. The life of Valery Khrishaty in the 93rd was swept away by an avalanche. Outstanding mountain climbers Grigoriy Lunyakov, Zinur Khalitov and Murat Galiyev perished in the Himalayas. Sergei Samoilov dreamed of ending his sports career by climbing Mount Everest, but found his last refuge in the stony ground on the path leading to this mountain. This list can be continued for a long time …
Minutes of silence were honored by the gathered memory of those who did not return from the peaks.
P / S. Everest is located in the Main Himalayan Range. Attempts to reach the top were made in different years. In 1924, along the northern ridge, the assistant professor of Cambridge University George Mallory and student Andrew Irwin. They were the first to reach the second stage of Everest and they had to overcome the height difference of 250 meters. Behind them in the field binoculars observed N. Odell, but the mountains were covered with clouds, and the deuce did not come down. The first in 1953 on Mount Everest rose New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherp Tening Norgay. As for the beautiful half of humanity, the first summit of Everest in 1975 reached the Japanese Junko Tabei, the fourteenth was a Russian of Kazakh origin Ekaterina Ivanova, Lyudmila Savina became the 40th climber to Everest.
 Galina Mulenkova