Description of the route.
From the climbing camp Tuyuksu leads a good path to the east through the ancient moraine and further to the key. From the key to the moraine along the middle and large scree to the Abay glacier. The point R0. From here the path to the summit passes through the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further turn on the Northwest ridge. Rising to the crest along the scree of snow on a characteristic jumper. From the lintel on the combined ridge with alternate insurance to the base of the summit tower. The tower is to be traversed along the left, along the snow, to the Northeast ridge. Further on the destroyed rocks with alternate insurance on the east side exit to the top.
Descent from the top – along the path of ascent.
The first climb to the summit was made by a group of climbers from Alma-Ata in 1939 in the number of six people under the leadership of G. Beloglazov in 1933.
1. Number of participants: unlimited.
2. The original bivouac – Tuyuksu alpine camp or the Abay glacier.
3. Exit from the bivouac at 5 o’clock.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:
– Main rope 2х40 m
– rock climbing hooks – 2 pcs.
– cats – 1 pair
– hammers – 1 pc.