The Central Sports Club of the Army of the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Kazakhstan exists for about half a century. During this time the club was renamed four times, invariably remaining a forge of worthy sports personnel.
In 1970, the 12th SKA SAVO was organized. It was then that the alpinist team appeared, which gained fame as one of the strongest in the USSR.
The Central Asian military district was united with Turkestan, and the club became known as the 12th SKA TurkVO. The Okrug seized the territories of three republics: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Yuriy Fokin from Kyrgyzstan was brought up in the club, sports fans remember the rowers Lobanov and Olympic champion in archery Zibiniso Rustamov from Tajikistan, the Olympic champion in basketball – Kazakhstan Valery Tikhonenko and many other outstanding athletes. Later the club was a branch of the Moscow CSKA.
At various times, the organization was headed by Zaveryukhin, Olenin, Novikov, who was appointed head of the 12th SKA in 1986 and headed this organization for more than thirty years. And since 1975, he was responsible for mountaineering – one of the most difficult and dangerous sports.
To organize the expedition, we had to make requests for equipment. We needed a gasoline truck, a car equipped with a radio station, as well as trucks for the transportation of climbers. In the cans from the canned food, they poured gasoline and sealed them to light the Primus during the ascent. Heavy canvas tents, cotton sleeping bags were taken to the mountains. Boxes received storms, suits with fleece, army sweaters, otrikonennye boots.
The heavy imperfect equipment and equipment were not a hindrance: in the 79th the army team pioneered the center of the South-East wall of the peak Russia (6875 m, Pamir) and took the 1st place in the USSR championship in the class of high-altitude ascents, in the 80th the first super- The route along the center of the South wall of the peak of Communism (7495 m, Pamir) and again were the best, in the 82nd it conquered the Northern Wall of Victory Peak (7439 m, Central Tien Shan).
Sometimes people died in the mountains. Novikov also answered for this aspect of mountain sports. He often risked a Party membership card, but it was not in his power to cancel avalanches and rockfalls.
Climbers of the 12th SAA SAO were recognized as pioneers able to work on technically complex routes at high altitudes. It is enough to recall a few more complicated expeditions.
The 86th: the first winter ascent to the highest peak of the USSR, the peak of Communism (7439 m, Pamir). As a part of the national team, the tops were reached by the Kazakhs V. Khrishaty, G. Lunyakov, Y. Moiseev, S. Samoilov, V. Suvi, Z. Khalitov.
88th: route along the North Face of Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m, Central Tien-Shan).
90th: traverse of the Victory Peaks – Khan-Tengri, or traverse of the horseshoe of the Southern Inylchek glacier.
As part of the first Soviet expedition to Everest in the 82nd, there were five army men. K. Valiev, V. Khrishatyi and Yu. Golodov reached the summit. During the second Soviet Himalayan expedition to Kanchenjunga, the traverses of four eight-thousand peaks of the massif were passed by A. Bukreev, Z. Khalitov and G. Lunyakov. V. Khrischatyi, V. Suvi, R. Khaybullin, V. Dedi, Y. Moiseev have reached different heights. The captain of the team was K. Valiev.
With the attainment of independence, the Defense Committee was formed in Kazakhstan, headed by Hero of the Soviet Union, Army General Sagadat Nurmagambetov, and after the reorganization of the Committee, the organization of CSKA MO RK appeared in the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Kazakhstan, where athletics, cycling, Swimming, diving, wrestling, boxing, gymnastics. Mountaineers, too, continued to hold high.
91st: the first independent Kazakh Himalayan expedition to Dhaulagiri (8167 m, the Himalayas), a route along the center of the Western Wall. The peaks reached V. Khrishchaty, Y. Moiseev, V. Suvi, A. Bukreev, V. Dedi, Z. Mizambekov, V. Prisyazhny, A. Shegai, A. Savin, R. Khaybullin, A. Tselishchev.
94th: the first winter ascent of Manaslu (8156 m, the Himalayas). The peaks reached Y. Moiseev, Sh. Gataulin, V. Suvi, D. Muraviev, O. Malikov, A. Baymakhanov, D. Grekov, D. Sobolev, M. Mikhailov, A. Bukreev.
97th: the first Kazakhstani expedition to Everest (8848 m, the Himalayas). Route from the north, across the North Saddle. The peaks reached V. Suwig (b.), S. Ovcharenko, A. Molotov, V. Frolov, D. Grekov, D. Muraviev, M. Mikhailov, D. Sobolev, L. Savina, S. Lavrov, K. Farafonov.
The world is changing, horizons are expanding, but the organization of expeditions is not becoming less difficult. Now we need to get a permit in the Ministry of Tourism of Nepal, walk with a caravan under one of the highest peaks and keep the mark on the route, that is, work without oxygen, preserving the best traditions of Kazakhstan mountaineering.
It is difficult to overestimate the contribution of Pavel Maksimovich Novikov to the development of the army, and the whole of Kazakhstan’s sport. In the 72nd he was an ordinary sportsman of the 42nd sports company, served as coach-instructor of the sports club. In 87th he was appointed Deputy Chief of the 12th SAA SAVA, and later as Chief. Master of Sports of the USSR, Honored Worker of Culture of the RK, Honored trainer of the Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Tajik SSR for many years supervised physical training and sports in the Armed Forces, trained athletes of the international class, traveled with the team to the Olympic Games, worked as vice-president of the NOC of the Republic of Kazakhstan , Was an advisor to the akim of Almaty on sports.
During his leadership, CSKA MO RK, branches were established in Shchuchinsk, Karaganda and Temirtau, in the Almaty region. At the club, there were four sports schools and a military sports college, where more than fifteen thousand children were engaged. A planned military operation was conducted. CSKA became a member of the World Association of Army Sports, athletes have repeatedly successfully performed at the Olympics of the Armed Forces. In the 2000s, 52 sports were developed at the CSKA. As for mountaineering, let us remind you: Kazakhstanis were the first in the world to perform the program of ascents to all 14 eight-thousanders of the Earth by the team, and Maksut Zhumayev, Vasily Pivtsov and Denis Urubko entered the club “14” personally and began to be called “owners” of the Himalayan crown.
P.S. General Major P.M. Novikov was awarded the Order of Krasnaya Zvezda, Kurmet, Dank, Barys, For Service to the Motherland in the Armed Forces of the USSR of the III degree, was awarded 18 medals and was awarded the Certificate of Honor of the Supreme Council of the Kazakh SSR.