Our Everest (Galina Mulenkova)

On these May days, 35 years have passed since the first Soviet Himalayan expedition to Everest, 1982, was successfully completed. As a part of the USSR national team there were five Kazakhstanis. A bunch of Valiev-Khristyaty reached the summit at night, and Il’insky and Chepchev, who approached from below, accompanied the deuce on the descent, according to the laws of Soviet mountaineering. On top of the climb they were banned by the leadership of the expedition. On May 9, along with the Russians on Mount Everest, Yuri Golodov ascended. Let me remind you that 35 years ago the most difficult route along the Southwest Face of Everest was passed.
And in 1997 the first independent Kazakhstan expedition to Everest was organized from the north under the leadership of Yervand Ilyinsky, and this year we celebrate its 20th anniversary. Then the tops reached Vladimir Suwig (without oxygen), Andrei Molotov, Vladimir Frolov, Sergei Ovcharenko, Konstantin Farafonov, Sergei Lavrov, Dmitry Grekov, Dmitry Muraviev, Dmitry Sobolev, and the first woman from the Republic of Kazakhstan, Lyudmila Savina.
The highest mountain of the planet (8848 m) is located in the Main Himalayan Range. Attempts to reach its peak were made in different years. In 1924, along the North ridge to the summit, the assistant professor of Cambridge University George Mallory and student Andrew Irwin advanced. They were the first to reach the second stage of Everest and they had to overcome the height difference of 250 meters. Behind them in the field binoculars observed N. Odell, but the top was covered by clouds, and deuce from the mountain did not return.
The first in 1953 on Mount Everest rose New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherp Tening Norgay. As for the beautiful half of humanity, the first summit of Everest in 1975 reached the Japanese Junko Tabei, the fourteenth was a Russian of the Kazakh origin Ekaterina Ivanova, Lyudmila Savina became the 40th climber.
So, in 1982 the names of climbers on Mount Everest were awarded to Kazbek Valiyev, Valery Khristashy and Yuri Golodov. In 1990, Yervand Ilyinsky ascended Everest as part of the US-China-Soviet expedition, Grigoriy Lunyakov and Andrei Tselishchev reached the top without oxygen. Anatoly Bukreev (1991, 1995, 1996, 1997) ascended the Everest four times without using oxygen equipment.

Galina Mulenkova