1991, Kazakhstan’s first Himalayan expedition to the Himalayas to the peak of Dhaulagiri (8167 m), the route in the center of the Western Wall (the first ascent).
We have already begun to fall out of the ascent schedule for the middle of the rocky walls of the belt, which was difficult and ended in climbing overhanging wall.
These last 70 meters of the complex rock zone, our group (Anatoly Boukreev, Andrew Tselishev Rinat Khaibullin) processed for the third day.
So the history of the last 30 meters.
Cherished end wall was close, but in front of me was a rocky ledge, and that it was necessary to climb. Solid wall with overhangs and cracks had little opportunity to arrange insurance were extremely limited, which also did not help calm the route.
Cornice logically it was convenient to pass diagonally. Under the eaves, I managed to find a crack, which scored a hook, the hook entered without ringing and high hopes for its strength I did not inspire. He began to climb, and 5 meters depending on small hooked, with whom, and flew down. Blow on the rock and weigh, Andrei “caught” me.
Feet in plastic boots and do not get in the iron crampons from such pleasure flight, there is a real danger to tear ligaments ankles, already I had.
I feel sad at heart, have Andryukha in the eyes of longing, we look at each other, then the two votes on the Orem Buku (Bukreeva), who was standing on the ledge below, “What do you stand? overnight stay “Seek.
Buka swayed the pendulum from a rope, went back on the shelf, the size of two feet and calmly announced to us that the shelf and will be a place for the night.
I began to tune in to a second attempt, made a warm-up, aggressive breathed, I type in competition climbing, pulse quickened, eyes and soul confidence to pass. He started to climb again and flew down, kick back, hook broke down, the rope taut, Andrei anxiously looking at me, I still intact, had passed.
“Andrew, can you try?” He shakes his head, “I can not.”
My confidence that I climbed this site has disappeared, and then Andrew exclaims, “I know what to do!”
At the beginning of the expedition, our Sirdar aka Lama in combination, held ritual and prayed for us and our success, then each issued for a handful of rice, which he brought from Lhasa, saying that in a difficult moment will have him throw aside the problems and to pray on my word, we do not know the prayer, he said, it will be enough just to shout. Rice had to be kept in the breast pocket, and since I did not have such a pocket. I trusted his portion Andryukha, where he was kept for 35 days while we were working on the wall.
So, Andrei reached into his pocket, pulls out a figure and begins to throw in the direction of the eaves, we are quite healthy and adult men start yelling and emit strange sounds.
Even without the workout I climbed, and climbed at a negative part of the cornice than the first attempt and climbed it! Scored the last rocky hook, slipped about 10 meters and came out on the ice, spun the last ice screws, all “iron” was over, but from then on there was a way across the ice to the top.
We spent the night sitting on the shelf, carved in ice.