Lhotse, South Wall, 1990
It was the strongest in the world team of high-altitude technical training.
Each of the participants — the legends of Soviet technical high-altitude mountaineering, at elevations of 7000 m and above there were rocky sites with a negative relief, I am proud that I was invited to this expedition.
The route is recognized by the international community as the most complex in the high-tech class in the world.
October 16, 1990 (25 years ago) Sergei Bershov and Vladimir Karataev stood on the top of Lhotse (8511m), completing the grandiose work of 17 alpinists of the USSR team, who put their strength and health on this route! Reinhold Mesner, who tried several times to pass the South Wall of Lhotse, called this route «The Route of the 21st Century.» The first passage of the South wall of Lhotse was made by the USSR Lutsk-90 expedition!
I, as a participant and high-altitude operator of this expedition, invite all comers on October 16, 2015. at 18:00 in the Kharkov Alpclub, where I will talk about the events of the expedition and show unique video materials.
Sports composition «Lhotse-90» was 17 climbers, five of them — Kharkovites. Unfortunately, except for me, no one can participate in the evening: Sergei Bershov in the Himalayas, Alexei Makarov lives in Kiev, and Viktor Pastukh and Igor Svergun died in the mountains.
More information at http://alpclub.com.ua/node/6136
and in the public group «Lhotse 1990»
The southern wall of Lhotse rarely becomes an object of ascent. The Yugoslavs first looked to this side of Lhodz, but could only reach 8100 meters. In 1985, 1987 and 1989, three Polish expeditions attempted to cross the southern wall. The maximum of what they managed to achieve is 8300 meters. The attempt of 1989 cost the life of Jerzy Kukuchka, the second in the history of the conqueror of all 14-and eight-thousanders. In the same year, the team with Reinhold Messner retreated from the southern wall because of disagreements between the participants.
In 1990, Tomo Chesin announced that the «Yugoslavian route» had passed. This «ascent» became one of the biggest mysteries and led to a scandal. Nobody could believe that a loner could pass where teams from strong climbers could not pass. The photos presented by Chesen were recognized as not very convincing. About this story you can read in the journal «Ekstrem»
The problem of climbing the southern wall of Lhodz was solved in the same year 1990, when on October 16, Sergei Bershov and Vladimir Karataev reached the summit in a stunning «Soviet directive». Many then remembered Kukuchka’s words in 1989, which he said before his deadly ascent — «If I do not pass it now, then in a year the Russians will do it.»
The third Soviet Himalayan expedition, which included the best climbers of the USSR as a result of the cruelest selection, set as its goal the passage of a super complicated route through the center of the South Wall of Lhodz — the fourth highest peak in the World. On the route, 7-8 intermediate camps were established, over 5000 m ropes were inspected. The key place of the route is a steep wall at 8000-meter height. Thanks to the well-coordinated work of high-class climbers, the expedition ended with success!
What was the price of this success? Several dozens of frostbitten amputated fingers, pneumonia, acute liver and kidney disease, hemorrhoids are far from a complete list of what the team received from Mount …