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Andrew Tselishev «My memories of Anatoly Bukreev»

Memories of Bukreev Anatoly
Mountain, Legends, remember, the USSR
Writes Andrew Tselishev, 27/12/2016 8:04
I’ll try to write about Anatolia Bukreeva their memories, how I remember it in the distant 80 and 90 years. Do not swear much, if my memories are far from the truth, but I remember him that way. I no writer, so do not blame me, I write as I can. And I try not to be repeated, and not to write about it well-known facts.
Bukreeva I learned in 1983, when an ordinary soldier was in a company of 12 sport SKA SAVO line for climbing and mountaineering. Anatoly was older than me by 5 years, and a track record gorovoskhozhdeniya he had more. At first he treated me more down, which is quite natural. But it quickly passed since the first joint ascents in July 84 Lenin Peak. He was a former athlete — skier, now working as a coach for cross-country skiing at the farm Mountain Gardener and climbing on seventhousanders few could keep pace with him one. Among the climbers went a joke, that he is the best skier among climbers and the best climber among skiers. Also Shreds moonlighting as an instructor at the camp site Tourism Almatau. And of course, as befits tourists sang and played guitar, he was known in those circles joker. He remembered the instructors classic anecdote:
— Hello, girls.
— And we’re not a girl, we a second time in the campaign.
He sang, in my opinion, very well. Loved songs Vizbora, Cook, Rosenbaum sang with selflessness. Team SKA SAVO at the time was a very strong, if not the strongest in the high-altitude class and Anatoly, with its powerful functionality, seemingly had to be in the starting lineup, but the guys did not let in a circle, perhaps the level of rock and ice preparation Anatoly left much to be desired, maybe there were some other reasons. So he was forced to walk with us, for the first time try their chances of seventhousander. Much later, on the stages of selection to the national team at Kanchenzhangu Tolia managed to pull the missing experience on the rocks, well in high-speed races equal to it was not simple.
Later, after serving in the army, arriving in Almaty on sports events or at work, I stayed at Toli or Rinat Khaibullina (my colleague on the sports company, partner in conjunction and a very strong climber). We byda certain tradition — every time I went, the four of us, three above and Valek Makarov (our resident doctor on almost all of the Alps Events SAVO himself quite strong climber in the past, the soul of the company, who saved many climbers.) Went to Shred in house in the Mountain Gardener (which is about 60 km from Almaty) acquired them. They sang songs, broke the sport mode for alcoholic beverages, remembering the past and enjoyed socializing before dawn. Tolia, incidentally, rarely indulged in alcohol and in small quantities. Such people — their dope enough. The next morning, Dopiewo last song, drank the last drop, went to Alma — Ata, everyone had to work. The hardest of all was Rinat. He was our driver for his old Gas 21. Sometimes Shreds flew to my hometown Ust_Kamenogorsk. I stayed at my house and met his pupil skier Olga Peskelidi coaches and friends, with all supporting good, friendly relations.
At 89, go to Kangchenjunga and thus paving his way to the Himalayas, Shreds gradually moved away from the team SKA SAVO If I am not mistaken, the last of his participation in a joint event was the spring of ’91 on Dhaulagiri. After that, he began to look for opportunities to earn a guide to the «Soviet» seventhousander at McKinley and later in the Himalayas. He is turned out very well. One of his first clients was an American grandfather, I in 93 year Tolia took him to the Khan Tengri and McKinley (unfortunately I do not remember his name, but Tolia basically called him was the grandfather), Tolia went to America at the invitation of his grandfather and I lived with him. He worked there as a laborer, first in general wore on him stones (can not remember where or why, or bricks, or stones in the quarry), showing a slide show in the climbing clubs. In general, I tried as best he could to cling to the job. Also, in the course of, and participated in various sporting events, such as race over rough terrain, where his peers were not many. In America, it was a long time and we have to meet less frequently. Now when Tolia came to Alma-Ata, I arrive just in time, and the time flew to the traditional gatherings in the Mountain gardeners. Earn some money, he bought an apartment on Shreds Medeo, considering the acquisition of a commercial project on the one hand and as a possible accommodation in a clean place. For environmental and health he treated very seriously. The main apartment has dvushka to Satpayev, just behind the Central Stadium. Everything was very austere. It was only furnished kitchen and bathroom. In my opinion in the hall of the former owners were pimped-sofa and an old wardrobe. The rest of the furnishings were backpacks and bags in large numbers scattered in every corner and beyond. This was mainly equipment and related items mountaineering. Tolia was obsessed with sneakers and was sometimes seen in the past buying in the shops of Kathmandu. As the Zatar there b / y sneakers to complete the program. Long and meticulous pacing, selflessly trading, getting enormous pleasure from it. When asked why so many of them you said that it’s New Belans- cool sneakers, and this sauconite, they run a very user-friendly. In short, he could not pass up a good and cheap things. When he saw standing in the corner of the shop guitar, he took rigged and zababahat Zoya Rosenbaum. The shop owner, of course did not understand a word but a long ovation. Ran Toll really sooooo much, hence the love of comfortable shoes. You could prepare themselves to peak form at the right time. In general, he led a very austere life, to save on everything except the favorite sneakers and the Alps. equipment. As it dragged us Valcke Makarov in which the jungle Kathmandu breakfast a few kilometers from the hotel, explaining that there muffins and tea for less at Rs 2-3. But Tolia was not greedy. Economical and thrifty — yes, just I was forced. From the party purchased / used shoes gave me some of the best, explaining that there stupinator ankle and just for my running style. Apparently, including instinct coach. Sometimes he gave glasses, branded good, sometimes sold at cost sneakers (now new) brought a small party of business. In Soviet times, all the coaches were forced to look for jobs in this way. In general Shreds spun as he could earn money to climb the Himalayas and just on bread. And now, I do not remember how Tolia goes to the Himalayas guide for the expedition, if not mistaken, the Indonesian army. He practiced as always on Pyaterochka. Proud of the Order or medal, but it does not matter, issued by the king that same Indonesia for his services and help in achieving the goal. Then goes assistant guide assistant, but American commercial expedition. Finally, the apotheosis, he rides in a guide, unfortunately, the acclaimed Expedition Scott Fischer. I’m talking about the events shown in the film Everest 2015 By the way, I liked the movie. Events related to the operation of Anatoly, as a guide shows there is very close to what he told me immediately after the expedition. (And our American comrades, participants climb Everest ’90, rasplevalis at how the film shows Scott Fischer. In real life, with their words and the words of Anatolia, it was very similar to the Toll his asceticism and allow yourself to drink alcohol in the mountains could not, and had never used it often and also practiced a lot.) Shreds very proud of familiarity with such great climbers. And very upset that all ended so tragically. The more worried about what was written about it in the press, tried to prove that the opinion Krokauera not quite right. But proud. that all of its customers, he saved, thereby fulfilling its mission. Then there was still a lot of climbing, but they told me he was not in such detail.
For me he will always be the standard of commitment, attitude towards his hobby. (Approximately the same was probably the only Hrischaty Valera). At the same time, humor, emotional lyrics and warm attitude to friends. Yes … and about their favorite women (they were few, actually) always said with love and respect. Over time, he became much more serious concerns to the people, and to the mountains he had his own, especially philosophy. But I will not repeat, this much has been written.
Eternal memory!